Birthday in Helena!

We made it back to Helena! And just in time for my birthday! Usually I would prefer spending my birthday on trail, but this time around I was just hoping for a relaxing town day for once. We ran around Helena and ended up downtown eating a delicious burger with beef fat potatoes, then we ran into Dragonsky, Lavender, and Jenga, some CDT friends we met in Glacier. It was awesome catching up with them for a moment!

Later in the day we met up with Pretzel and Snags (Martha and Trevor), the AT thru-hikers we met last time we were in Helena, and Pretzel offered to have us over for a birthday dinner. She made grilled salmon, grilled veggies, a grain salad with delicious lemon herb yogurt sauce, and a homemade carrot cake! We were going to rent Asteroid City and watch it on their big projector screen, but we ended up just hanging out on the deck talking trail and enjoying the cool evening weather until late in the evening. I wouldn’t have changed a thing, it was so good to spend more time with new wonderful friends.

A couple of days later we hiked through this little town called Mammoth on the Big Sky Alternate and managed to snag a nice campsite on a stretch of road full of first come first served sites. As I was waiting for my cold soaked ramen to be ready to eat, Smarts pulled a surprise out of his food bag. Instant cheesecake with cherry topping! I got to have a second birthday “cake” on trail thanks to the sweetest partner I could ever hope for. I don’t know what I’ve done to deserve such amazing people in my life, this was easily one of the best birthdays I’ve ever had. I’m a very lucky girl.

Anaconda to Helena, with Hail!

We finally made it to Butte just in time for strong spring storms to blow in. The forecast showed torrential rain for the next few days, so we decided to get a ride over to Anaconda, Montana where there is a free hiker hut to stay in, and take the alternate route north from there. Once the rain died down (or so we thought), we finally stepped back on trail.

The rain kept coming. Our first night out we had a ride awakening regarding unexpected trail conditions. Invasive beetles had killed many of the lodgepole pines at elevation, leaving behind tons of deadfalls and widow makers. This made finding camp extremely difficult. Tarp camping leaves you a bit more exposed, so ideally we would set up under some sort of natural coverage, typically tree cover. But with all the dead trees, the ground being saturated, and storms blowing through it was just too risky to set up camp under the trees. This meant we had to make camp in grassy meadows, fully exposed.

We didn’t find suitable camp until around 10pm the first night, and it was incredibly sloped. I didn’t sleep very well because I kept sliding into Chris. The second day out we were exhausted but the weather mostly held up. We reached our first patch of postholing through snow so far, in a section that didn’t have many blazes to follow. This made for a slow going few miles of constantly checking our location on our phones. Once we made it through the snowy patch we started cruising and felt good about making better time than expected. We started the descent to our planned camp area and booked it downhill for a couple of miles, following what we thought were CDT blazes. At the bottom of the descent we checked our location to see how far we were from camp and realized we had taken a wrong turn, all the way back at the top! This was a tough pill to swallow, having to climb about 1000 feet with a couple bonus miles to backtrack. It’s a good thing we were making good time prior to the screw up! We still made it to camp with daylight to spare, partially due to the long days this time of year in Montana.

Day three was pretty uneventful until evening. We took an alternate route around Thunderbolt Mountain because of the forecast storms, and to avoid any more snow slowdowns. We came across a big bird (maybe a grouse?) right next to the trail that didn’t seem to be bothered by us at all. While we avoided the snow, we eventually came upon a damn obstacle course of blowdowns all over the trail. For about a mile we had to scramble over and around wet dead trees scattered about like a pile of dropped toothpicks. This would have been fun if we weren’t trying to make good time!

Once again, potential camping spots were scarce. There were comments in the FarOut app about a pond with some camping that was right around the mileage we were making that day. We got to the pond and it was not good. It was next to a dirt road, with broken glass and lumpy washed out ground. But there was a storm coming and it was getting late so we didn’t really have much choice but to pitch our tarps. Almost immediately after getting camp set up, it began to hail. And it hailed hard and heavy. I looked over to Chris’s tarp and could see him holding up the side of it against the wind. I looked around and could see the hail bouncing under the tarp and onto my quilt, and the washed out ground flooding around me. I had to act quickly to prevent my down from getting soaked and then having no way to stay warm through the night. I grabbed water bottles and rocks and whatever else I could find to prop up the edges of my tyvek ground sheet. It actually worked pretty well! Finally, after what felt like hours (but was maybe 40 minutes) the hail stopped and we were able to evaluate our circumstances. Our only choices were to try to eat a ton of food for warmth and calories and try to get some sleep, or to hike several miles down to a campsite that had pit toilets we could hole up in for the night. The pit toilets just didn’t sound appealing, and our quilts were damp but not soaked (thanks hydrophobic down!). So we made it through the night and finished the last 14 or so miles into Helena the next morning, reluctantly deciding along the way that we were going to send our tarps home and switch back to tents!

A Walk Up The River

We woke up warm and dry in our quilts and had to force ourselves to pack up our beds and down puffies and put on our cold, wet shoes. The sun was just visible over the ridge, but it would still be awhile before it’s warmth graced us. The sun was the enemy for the first 160 miles, but now we ached for it’s presence.

The first river crossing of the morning was knee deep and woke us up quick. The water was cold and swift and the sand found its way into our freshly rinsed out shoes immediately. I could still feel my feet but my calves were numb. After the second crossing we could see the sun shining on the bank just ahead. We rushed as quickly as we safely could until we were able to bask in the warm glow. We couldn’t stay still for long, there were storms in the forecast, but it was a welcome respite from the chill of the morning.

We continued on, calling out the number of crossings each time. This was like something out of a dream, meandering up an ancient river with everything I need on my back. Late in the morning we reached the 200 mile marker. We heard thunder in the distance a few times, but the weather held and my fear of lightning lives to see another day.

As we neared the end of our river hiking for the day we decided to break for lunch at a hot spring noted in FarOut. After a bit of searching we found the steaming oasis, where we ate ravenously while soaking our tired feet.

Finally, after crossing the Gila River 48 times, we had reached Highway 15. Just 1.2 miles of road walk remained to Gila Hot Springs and Doc Campbells, where our resupply was waiting. The plan for the next 120+ miles of river was still unclear. The idea of another zero day wasn’t very appealing, but we needed a break to dry out our feet and figure out what to do next. We ended up staying at Gila Hot Springs and Campground where we were told the rules, one of which states that clothing is optional in the hot springs after dark. After eating salad and fruit from Doc Campbells we found ourselves skinny dipping in a hot spring looking at the stars in the dark night sky. We’d figure out the plan tomorrow.

Kittens!

Y’all! We just saw three bobcat kittens! We were walking along a range and Chris started mooing at the cows. Out of the corner of my eye I saw movement and when I looked over there were three perfect little baby bobcat faces poking out of their den! I didn’t catch a photo because I didn’t want to spook them, and I didn’t know where the mom was. It’s been a tough day, but that made all the delays worth it! I could totally die happy now.

Pennsylvania

Alright y’all, not much time for updates this morning but we are 30 miles into PA and making a dash for Port Clinton to finally get Chris a phone again! We’ll be resting up on Saturday so I’ll post more fun stuff then!

-Sprinkles

We Met a Donkey!

He was so short but SO FAT. His name is Jake and he’s the sweetest.Last night we camped in a tiny park in Unionville, NY. There was one of those blinky light fixtures that would go off and on every 5 minutes which was annoying but it was a free flat place to sleep so I’m grateful for it!We ate breakfast sandwiches and danishes from Horler’s General Store and Deli and they were both amazing. The sandwich was huge and so delicious! We also had pizza for dinner last night and lunch today at Annabel’s Pizza and it was awesome too.We lucked out and were told about a Pastor in town who is a former thru hiker and lets hikers shower and do laundry, which was an unexpected development but one we desperately needed. So now we’re back at a shelter in New Jersey (Oh yea, we’re in Jersey!) trying to get to Maryland in 20 days to see my best friend!Oh also my new friend Moose made my day by mentioning that she listens to Whitney Houston while hiking, so I gave it a try and it was awesome! Her upbeat songs have the perfect beat to hike to.Well dinner is ready, time for a Knorr rice side! At least this time it’s a new flavor, red beans and rice, woohoo!-Kylie “Sprinkles”

Winter is Coming

It’s supposed to get close to 40 degrees tonight, and I think I’m the only excited one here! I’ve found the quality of my sleep to be much better in the cold. I need to buy a new warm hat though, I lost mine awhile back and just forget to replace it in town. My bandana has been sufficient for now though.

Tonight we’re camping near an overlook on Arden mountain in New York with our new friend Moose. There’s a group of 3 nobos (nortbbounders) camping here with us. I’m surprised that we still encounter nobos sometimes this late in the season, winter is coming fast in New England!

Oh, so we hit 800 miles today! We’re also back to carrying our full packs again, which is strangely comforting. We slack packed again today until we met up with our trail angel around 5 and grabbed our full packs then headed up to camp. It was fun being so light but I missed the feeling of carrying all I need on my back. It’s late and I can barely keep my eyes open so that’s all for now!

-Kylie “Sprinkles”

P.S. The spot gps tracker has new batteries!

New York

The spot gps device batteries died, so it’ll be back on as soon as I can get batteries. Today we’re going over Bear Mountain in New York, the third Bear Mountain of the trail!

I’m currently sitting next to a cool van eating pancakes made by the guy who slack-packed us yesterday and is going to today. We leave most of our stuff with him and just carry a small daypack with snacks and a couple essentials. Then we meet up with him at a road crossing to pick up our stuff. It’s awesome!

Time to hike!

-Kylie “Sprinkles”

The Dirty

Okay so I’m gonna have to get real for a minute. If you gross out easily then this post might not be for you.

I pooped in a ziploc bag last night. We pushed for a 21 mile day so that we could camp at this deli .3 miles off trail that we’d heard good things about. They have awesome sandwiches and a spigot for water and outlets to charge devices and a nice yard they encourage thru hikers to camp in. But they don’t have a public restroom. I didn’t know that. I purposefully held my poop as we passed the last privy 3 or 4 miles prior because I was just so excited to have a real toilet that flushes and a sink to wash my hands. My heart dropped when I saw the “no public restroom” sign on the door. I ordered my sandwich and proceeded to ask if they knew of anywhere nearby that I could use a restroom, but alas they did not. It was a Sunday and the only other businesses nearby were a concrete plant and a heating company, both of which were definitely closed. I got my sandwich and went out back knowing there was no way I could make it back to the privy, nor was I willing to add 6-8 miles to my day just to poop. There was nowhere far enough away from where people hang out to dig a cathole, and I guess I could have gone back to the woods to dig but at this point it was starting to get dark. I knew what I had to do. After several minutes of contemplating my life and my decisions that had brought me to this point, I fished a spare gallon size ziploc out of my bag and waited for it to get really dark out. And then I pooped in the ziploc bag in the middle of their backyard.

It was pretty life changing.