Our Hike on the Continental Divide Trail from Mexico to Canada
We slowed down to wait for clearer weather and it worked. We had to take 2 low-mileage days to make our ridge hike coincide with a somewhat favorable forecast. I’m so glad we didn’t miss clear views on this last alpine ridge.
The day isn’t yet over and we’ve climbed these and come this far…(Washington is the tall white peak back there)
This is the second section of the presidential for us and I must say the going is easier than I thought it would be. The terrain was either overstated by NOBO hikers who are used to gentle tread, or rocky old Maine beat us down and made us earn our trail legs. Either way, we planned a section a bit too easy for our ability, so we’ve had some free time.Chili dogs and pizza in the Mount Washington cafeteria acquainted us with the normal world once again. Drive-up tourists remind us of how dirty we smell and unusual we look and behave. Last night we were too early to the Madison hut to earn a work-for-stay, but tonight were fortunate. We’ll receive AYCE leftovers and a spot on the dining room floor to sleep in exchange for chores. It’s a good deal to not have to push another 4-5 miles to a tent site and eat my own food.
It’s the first paid shelter, but we’re glad to see it as the rain seemed like I may come down during our descent of Mahoosuc Arm. The AMC runs the last shelters in Maine, and this one is pay-to-play if we want a structure over our heads now through New Hampshire. But, it did begin to storm and I’m glad to be inside, dry, and not climbing down slick rock on the way to camp tonight. We have a big one tomorrow now that we stopped short.
We caught a glimpse of a distant mountain yesterday. It loomed over even the closest ridges even though it is all the way in New Hampshire. It is the beginning of the Whites.
Maine has been amazing, but the last miles and the first of New Hampshire might be the hardest yet to plan. I’m not sure what mileage I can ask of my body and how many pounds of food I should ask my back to carry. I’m heading out to Baldpate and Mahoosuc before the Whites anyway, so I’ll get there when I get there.
Cruising along…
This is one of the most beautiful, rugged, and wild places I’ve been in my life. The experience this far has been overwhelming. I know I will be sad when the 100 Mile Wilderness ends. I finally acclimated to the solitude, and for the first time in 10 days I can see cultivated land dotted among the lakes and mountains ahead.
Katahdin itself felt otherworldly, and now after the wilderness I feel like I’ve visited two completely different planets. I’ll never forget the crystal-clear lakes, pristine springs, and mountain ponds. This had been more intense than I ever hoped. So many hikers in our starting bubble have already quit. But those of us who persist will all be congratulating ourselves and each other at the hostel ahead. We share the comradery of the few.
It’s funny. We’ve all done our preparation. We have spent months obsessing over every piece of gear — scrutinizing each garment, trying on dozens of shoes, trimming ounces and grams from our base weight, and second guessing how cold it will be in the Whites. We’ve spent hours pouring over forums, blogs, and articles, chosing our food and deciding if our shoelaces will be good enough.
And now we’re all sitting together in a bus station like kids on the first day of kindergarten, nervous and uncertian, quiet and fidgety, feeling this whole thing out. The ice isn’t even too thick, but I’m too tired to break it today.
We left home yesterday afternoon to start our meandering car trip. After spending today in Atlanta with Kylie’s parents, we will tidy up our gear, rent the car, and plod along northward for several days. It feels like the clank-clank of a roller coaster ramp. Intellectually I know what to expect, but still have no basis to guess how it will all feel.
I’m definitely grateful we allowed for so much wiggle room in our schedule. There have been so many unforeseen tasks and chores. I couldn’t imagine jumping onto a plane for Maine yesterday and beginning the hike tomorrow with this lack of sleep.
-Chris