We left Augusta via a ride from a local and got back to Benchmark trailhead mid-morning. Just like our ride into town, this morning we got stuck in a cattle drive for about half an hour as the sea of black cows parted around the truck.
We knew the next section had a lot of elevation gain and loss, but nothing prepares you for trail conditions. This stretch was very much like the Appalachian Trail–ups and downs followed by more ups and downs–but with slippery gravel trail and much better views. After over 20 miles of exposed ridge and forceful winds, we camped at Lewis and Clark pass (yes, the pass they crossed) on night two with another hiker named Graceland. After even more ridges, ups and downs, exposure, and threat of rain, we made it to Flesher pass by night three.
We had one more partial day to reach high divide outfitter on day four, and our legs and lungs are getting whooped. Smoke from wildfires in Canada started reaching us on the jet stream and the air was still very hazy. By the time we reached the outfitter at Stemple pass we needed a break. We heard Dave allowed people to tent on his property around the shop, so we planned a short day, shopped for food, took an outdoor shower, and rested.
A few other hikers came in and out that day but Switchbacks and Viking both camped for the night. We all commiserated and chatted around the picnic table until it was time for bed. Switchbacks found a used pair of shoes to get him the rest of the way into Helena where his next pair were waiting.
Eager for town and exhausted by the climbs, we searched the maps for a lower route to Helena and set out on a 30-mile day through the gulches in the valley before climbing back up to the CDT north of McDonald pass. We had our asses kicked over the last few days, but the promise of town food and rest kept us marching to within 8 miles of the city.